confusingly named. It has more than one rather spectacular church. It has streets named Blacksmith and Shipyard. But that's not it, not entirely. It feels ancient in the same way many Connecticut River towns do. Settled in the 1700s and bound by the geography of river and landing, it has the silent unchanged feeling that hangs over inland ports and always feels to me - with my coastal ways - quite mysterious. But there has been change here. Today, if not for the river and the street names and the ship on the Historic District sign, that mysterious feeling would be the only hint that the brigs and schooners built here once connected Middle Haddam to the West Indies, New York, trade, adventure, and war.